Top Tips
A party in Oaxaca can not be complete without a fully-fleshed out list:
Desayunito / To start your day!
For breakfast, Boulenc is a great bakery-style stop — more of a European café than a local spot, but solid. Itanoní is all about corn and traditional Oaxacan breakfast dishes and is highly recommended, but service is slow, so go with time. La Florecita inside Mercado de la Merced is a classic, very local way to start the day, and Pan con Madre is good for pan dulce.
Bodega, Onnno, Yegolé, and Xiguela Café in Jalatlaco are all very good breakfast options too, depending on whether you want something more local or a little more polished. Tierra del Sol is also a great breakfast stop, especially if you want to try their atole tasting at mace which is well and worth doing.
Memelas Doña Vale is iconic and absolutely delicious but it’s located in the Central de Abasto, the main central market so it’s best to go with someone who knows the area well Fonda San José is another simple, very local option for breakfast or a light lunch, and Tacos del Carmen is a street stand worth stopping for Oaxacan-style empanadas (more like quesadillas) and tacos. Chepiche is homey and easy, and Almú is a nice, more modern coffee and breakfast spot.
Comida / Cena (Lunch / Dinner)
Origen is a beautiful, classic Oaxaca restaurant and one of the more polished options. Alfonsina is worth the drive and feels more like a destination meal. Levadura de Olla is beautiful and deeply rooted in Oaxacan cooking.
If you want something connected to traditional smoke-cooked food, the Cocina de Humo experience with Thalía can be a very good lunch option. Casa Oaxaca is touristy but a classic with a beautiful setting, and Las Quince Letras is very traditional with excellent moles. Crudo is a creative Omakase that fuses Japanese and Oaxacan flavors and techniques.
For a special out-of-town meal, Isabel Sánchez in Etla is also a wonderful experience and worth the trip if you have the time.
If you’re interested in cacao, the experience at Aguamiel / Aguamarga is worth looking into.
Street food / Casual Bites
Mercado de la Merced is great for breakfast and simple antojitos, and Mercado Juárez is more central and practical for everyday food. Mercado 20 de Noviembre is more touristy but still fun for tlayudas, grilled meats, and snacks and nearby you can go see the Mayordomo chocolate shops and see the mills.
Shopping / Crafts / Design
For huipiles and textiles, Los Baúles de Juana Cata (Remigio) on Macedonio Alcalá is a beautiful stop for traditional pieces. Little Clay Shop near Cruz de Piedra and the aqueduct is great for ceramics, and Arch’s in Centro has a nice mix of design-forward objects. Tienda Q on Manuel Bravo is another good stop for clothes and crafts with a more contemporary feel. Museo Textil is worth visiting for both the museum and its shop, and Andares on Av. de la Independencia has a well-curated selection of Oaxaca-made crafts. La Casa de las Artesanías is more traditional but gives a solid overview of regional work in one place.
For books and paper goods, La Jícara in Centro is a beautiful bookstore/café space. Ámate Books in Jalatlaco is also worth a stop, especially if you want English-language books — they have a great selection on all kinds of subjects. For anything practical like notebooks or school supplies, Abastecedora Escolar (Merced or Independencia branches) is simple but very useful.
Also worth visiting: Enserutilitario and Grano x Grano by Chef Olga Cabrera for curated modern Oaxacan kitchen and table design, plus beautiful ingredients and spices.
Markets in Oaxaca
Mercado de la Merced is still the best market in the city for everyday food and one of the most enjoyable to visit overall. Mercado Sánchez Pascuas is very good and in a great location; Jugos Angelita has some of the best juices around. Mercado Juárez is more central and practical, and Mercado 20 de Noviembre is more touristy but still fun.
Outside the city, the weekly markets are all worth timing if you can: Zaachila on Thursdays which is more rural and traditional, Ocotlán on Fridays has strong craft offerings, and both Teotitlán and Tlacolula on Sundays are excellent for food, textiles, and a more immersive local experience.
Art / Projects / Studios
Ruina in San Martín Tilcajete is a very special project by Ricardo Ángeles — more than a gallery, it includes a restaurant, temazcal, and copal plantation, and is worth arranging ahead of time. Parallel Oaxaca in Centro is a strong contemporary art space. YOPE Collective, led by Andy Medina, is one of the more interesting young artist initiatives and can sometimes be visited by appointment. La Trinidad on Rayón is another creative space that hosts exhibitions and events.
If you’re interested in pottery and workshops, Pitao Copal in Atzompa is a great visit and a really special experience.
Museums / Cultural Spaces
MACO is the main contemporary art museum in the city, and San Pablo Cultural Center is one of the most important cultural spaces (also home to a great children’s library). Museo Textil is essential for understanding Oaxaca’s textile tradition. Museo Álvarez Bravo is excellent for photography, and Museo Rufino Tamayo has an important pre-Hispanic collection in a beautiful setting. CaSa in Etla is worth the short trip outside the city if there’s an exhibition on. MuFi (stamp museum), IAGO (graphic arts and architecture library), and the Ethnobotanical Garden (guided visits only) are all very special stops in Centro.
For families, Biblioteca Infantil BS in Xochimilco is a beautiful children’s library and space. Casa de la Cultura Andrés Henestrosa also hosts exhibitions and programming, and there are often music concerts happening throughout the week around Centro.
